Kota Bharu

Kota Bharu is the capital of Kelantan, Malaysia's most traditional Malay state, and the gateway to the Perhentian Islands. It suits culture-curious travellers and island-goers in transit. Come March to October — the monsoon shuts the islands from November to February.

• Siti Khadijah Central Market — a photogenic, women-run produce market
• Handicraft villages for batik, songket weaving and silverwork
• Istana Jahar museum of Kelantanese royal ceremonies
• Transfer to Kuala Besut jetty for the Perhentian Islands (about an hour by road)

Fly about one hour from Kuala Lumpur — Kota Bharu has several flights a day and fares are often cheap. From the airport it is roughly an hour's drive to Kuala Besut jetty, then a 30-45 minute speedboat to the Perhentians; boats cost around RM70 ($17) return.

Food is the other reason to linger. Kelantan's nasi kerabu (blue-tinged herb rice) and ayam percik are at their best on the food floor above the central market, where a full plate runs around RM10 ($2.50). Slow travellers can also arrive on the east-coast "jungle railway" line, which ends at Tumpat near the city.

Most travellers give the city half a day to a full day on the way to the islands. It pairs with Terengganu next door — Redang island and the Crystal Mosque — if you are working down the east coast. See the full Malaysia guide for route ideas.