Sapporo

Sapporo is the capital of Hokkaido, Japan's wild northern island, and a city of two personalities. In winter it is Japan's snow capital — home of the world-famous February Snow Festival and gateway to powder-snow ski resorts. In summer it is the country's coolest big city, literally: mild, green and surrounded by flower fields while the rest of Japan swelters.

Its grid-planned streets are easy to navigate, and the food — miso ramen, soup curry, Hokkaido dairy — is a trip highlight on its own.

Odori Park is the city's kilometre-long green spine and its stage: snow sculptures the size of buildings during the February Snow Festival, beer gardens and lilac blossoms in summer. The Sapporo TV Tower at its east end gives the classic view down the park.

Ride the Mt Moiwa ropeway at night. Sapporo's night view from Moiwa's 531 m summit is officially ranked among Japan's top three — a glittering grid running to the sea. Return ropeway tickets cost about ¥2,100 ($13); go on a clear evening.

Eat your way through Susukino. The neon entertainment district hides Ramen Alley, a narrow lane of tiny miso-ramen counters. By day, the Nijo fish market does crab and seafood-rice bowls, and dessert is always Hokkaido soft-serve.

Visit the Sapporo Beer Museum in its red-brick 19th-century brewery, and the white Former Hokkaido Government Building and Clock Tower for the city's frontier-era history — all quick, cheap stops.

Season decides your day trips: in winter, the romantic canal town of Otaru (40 minutes away) and world-class ski hills; in summer, Furano's lavender fields and Biei's flower hills, about two hours out. See the Hokkaido guide for the wider island — national parks, onsen towns and drift ice.