Fukuoka

Fukuoka is the capital of Kyushu, Japan's southern island, and the country's undisputed street-food city. Its yatai — tiny open-air stalls that light up the riverside at dusk — are the last great stall culture in Japan, and its tonkotsu ramen conquered the world from here. The city itself is compact, seaside and noticeably friendlier-paced than Tokyo or Osaka.

For travellers, Fukuoka is both a destination and a gateway: the shinkansen from Osaka ends here, and Kyushu's hot-spring towns fan out beyond it.

Eat at the yatai. Around a hundred stalls set up each evening, mostly along the Nakasu island riverfront and in Tenjin. Squeeze onto a bench, order ramen or grilled skewers, and talk to strangers — that is the point. Go around 7 pm; many close by midnight and on rainy nights.

Slurp tonkotsu ramen at the source. Hakata-style pork-bone ramen was born here. Try it at Canal City's "Ramen Stadium" — eight famous shops under one roof inside the canal-threaded mall — or at the original Ichiran and Ippudo branches.

Day-trip to Dazaifu Tenmangu. The shrine of learning, its arched bridges and 6,000 plum trees sit 40 minutes away by direct train — the city's essential excursion.

Walk Ohori Park and the castle ruins. A big lake loop path, pavilions and the stone walls of Fukuoka Castle make the city's best morning; in cherry-blossom season the castle grounds of Maizuru Park next door are the local hanami spot.

Between meals, see the giant reclining Buddha at Nanzoin temple (30 minutes east), the ancient wooden halls of Tochoji with its 10-metre seated Buddha, and beachside Uminonakamichi park in summer. Shoppers get Canal City and Tenjin's underground arcades.